How to Tell If a Shawl Is Handmade or Machine-Made: A Fashion Expert's Guide

Nearly 80% of shawls sold as "handcrafted" in markets worldwide are actually machine-made.

I get it. When you're standing in a boutique or scrolling through an online store, trying to figure out if that gorgeous shawl draped on the mannequin is genuinely handmade or just cleverly marketed feels overwhelming. 

But once you know what to look for, it's like having a superpower. And trust me, this knowledge will save you from making expensive mistakes while helping you invest in pieces that actually hold their value and story.

Why Does It Even Matter?

Before we jump into the how-to, let's talk about why this distinction matters. 

Handmade shawls aren't just fabric—they're wearable art. Each one carries the fingerprint of its maker, sometimes taking months to complete. Machine-made shawls? They're efficient, consistent, and perfect for everyday wear. 

Neither is "bad," but knowing the difference means you're paying the right price for what you're actually getting.

The Fringe Check: 

Start here because it's the easiest tell. Flip that shawl over and examine the fringe carefully.

Handmade shawls:

• Have fringes that are literally extensions of the warp threads used in weaving

• Show slight irregularities in spacing and thickness

• Feel like they're part of the fabric's DNA, not an add-on

Machine-made shawls:

• Often have fringes that are attached separately using stitching or gluing

• Display perfect uniformity (suspiciously perfect, actually)

• Sometimes feature knotted fringes that look too identical

I remember examining a shawl at a pop-up market in Delhi. The vendor insisted it was handwoven, but those fringes? Attached with near-invisible stitching. When I gently pointed this out, he quietly offered me a 40% discount. Knowledge is literally money.

The Weave Pattern Test

Hold the shawl up to natural light and look closely at the weave structure.

Handmade shawls have personality. The weave shows tiny variations—a thread slightly thicker here, a minuscule gap there. These aren't flaws; they're signatures. 

When someone sits at a handloom for hours, their human rhythm creates these beautiful inconsistencies. 

Machine-made pieces, on the other hand, have a robotic precision that's almost too perfect. Every thread sits exactly where it should, creating a uniformity that, once you notice it, you can't unsee.

Pro tip: Check both sides of the fabric. In genuinely handwoven pieces, both sides tell the same story with similar character. Machines often create a distinct "right" and "wrong" side.

Embroidery and Embellishments: 

This is where most people get fooled, so pay attention.

When examining embroidered shawls, flip them inside out. Yes, really! The reverse side tells you everything you need to know about how the piece was made.

Hand embroidery reveals:

• Visible knots and thread ends on the reverse

• Slight irregularities in stitch length and tension

• A somewhat "messy" backside that shows the journey of the needle

• Individual character in each motif, even in repeated patterns

Machine embroidery shows:

• An almost clean reverse side with uniform thread bridges

• Perfect consistency across all identical motifs

• Threads that look like they've been laser-guided into place

• A systematic, grid-like appearance

I bought a shawl from a small artisan collective in Kutch three years ago. The reverse side looked like organized chaos—knots, thread trails, the whole deal. 

My friend thought I'd been ripped off. But today, that "messy" shawl has been featured in two editorial shoots and has appreciated. Authenticity always wins.

The Touch Factor: 

Here's something they don't teach in fashion school but every textile expert knows: handmade fabrics feel different. Close your eyes and run your fingers across the surface.

Handwoven shawls have texture variations that massage your fingertips. You might feel slight ridges, unexpected softness in certain sections, or areas where the weave feels denser. 

Machine-made shawls feel consistently smooth, with a surface that's been engineered for uniformity.

This isn't about one being better—it's about recognizing authenticity. 

Some of my clients specifically prefer the predictable softness of machine-made shawls for daily wear. Others live for that slightly nubby, organic feel of handwoven pieces.

Weight Distribution Matters

Pick up the shawl and pay attention to how the weight distributes across your hands.

Handmade shawls often have subtle weight variations because the tension on a handloom changes ever so slightly as the weaver works.

You might notice that one section feels marginally heavier or that the drape isn't perfectly geometric. Machine-made pieces have been calibrated for even weight distribution from edge to edge.

The Selvage Edge Investigation

The selvage (that's the finished edge running along the length of the fabric) is like a textile's ID card.

Handwoven selvages:

• Show the weaver's personal finishing technique

• Might have slight unevenness or character

• Often incorporate the weft threads in a visible way

• Can display tiny imperfections that prove human hands were involved

Machine-made selvages:

• Look industrially finished with laser-like precision

• Have a standardized appearance

• Often include a tightly locked edge that's almost too clean

Price Point Reality Check

Let's talk numbers because this matters. A genuine handwoven Pashmina shawl takes 200-400 hours to create. 

Do the math on even modest labor costs, add materials, and you're looking at a significant investment. If someone's offering you a "handmade Pashmina" for $50, your alarm bells should be ringing.

I'm not saying expensive always equals handmade—plenty of designer brands charge premium prices for machine-made pieces. But if the price seems too good to be true for a purportedly handcrafted item, you're probably looking at machine work.

The Label and Documentation

Authentic artisan pieces often come with documentation—certificates of authenticity, information about the weaver or cooperative, and details about the technique used. Some even include photographs of the artisan at work.

Machine-made shawls typically have generic labels focused on care instructions and fabric content. The branding emphasizes the company name rather than the craftsperson.

When I source pieces for my styling projects, I always ask for provenance. Legitimate sellers of handmade textiles take pride in sharing their sourcing stories and artisan connections.

Regional Technique Markers

Different regions have difficult signature techniques (sometimes impossible) for machines to replicate.

Kashmiri Pashmina: Look for the traditional hashia (border) done in hand embroidery. The corners should show where the artisan turned the fabric, creating slight irregularities.

Bandhani from Gujarat: Each tie-dyed dot in genuine Bandhani requires individual binding. Machine versions use printing to simulate the effect, but the texture gives it away.

Kani shawls: These use small wooden spools called kanis for weaving intricate patterns. The color changes mid-pattern show subtle overlap—something machines can't authentically replicate.

The Sound Test (Yes, Really!)

This might sound weird, but fabrics make noise. Shake a handwoven shawl gently near your ear. It produces a softer, more organic rustling sound. Machine-made pieces, especially those with synthetic blends, create a crisper, almost papery sound.

I discovered this accidentally during a trunk show when a client shook out a shawl while deciding between two options. The sound difference was stark, and now I always include this in my authentication process.

How to Tell If a Shawl Is Handmade: My Quick Checklist

When you're shopping and need to make a fast assessment:

1. Fringe inspection – Are they part of the fabric or attached separately?

2. Flip test – Does the reverse side show human handwork or machine precision?

3. Texture scan – Run your fingers across the surface with eyes closed

4. Weight check – Does it drape with slight irregularities or perfect uniformity?

5. Price reality – Does the cost align with hours of human labor?

6. Story test – Can the seller tell you about the maker or technique?

When Machine-Made Makes Sense

Here's some real talk: machine-made shawls aren't evil. I own several, and they serve specific purposes in my wardrobe beautifully.

Choose machine-made when you want:

• Affordable everyday luxury

• Easy care and maintenance

• Consistent color and pattern matching across multiple pieces

• Durability for frequent wear

But know what you're buying and pay accordingly.

The Investment Perspective

Handmade shawls appreciate over time when properly cared for. I have a hand-embroidered Kashmiri shawl from 2015 that's worth more today than what I paid for it. 

Machine-made pieces, regardless of how beautiful, remain commodities.

If you're building a wardrobe with investment pieces that hold cultural and monetary value, handmade is the way to go. For trendy pieces you'll rotate out seasonally, machine-made works perfectly.

Next time you're shawl shopping, take your time, use these checks, and don't let anyone rush you through the decision. 

A seller who's proud of genuine handwork will happily let you examine the piece thoroughly.

Ask questions. Where was this made? Who made it? What technique was used? How long did it take? Authentic artisan sellers love talking about their pieces. Vendors passing off machine work as handmade get uncomfortable fast.

The Bottom Line

Learning how to tell if a shawl is handmade isn't about being snobby or dismissing machine-made pieces. 

It's about making informed decisions and paying fair prices for what you're actually getting. 

It's about respecting artisan craftsmanship when you choose to invest in it, and being smart about your purchases when you opt for machine-made alternatives.

Both have their place in a well-curated wardrobe. The difference is in knowing which one you're holding in your hands and what story you want your style to tell.